The Oily Devils and Other Strange Happenings of Carnival

Last week, I shared my love affair with the city of Oaxaca. This week, I want to dive deeper into an event that stands out as one of the most unique spectacles I’ve ever witnessed.

Oaxaca is surrounded by artisan villages on all sides, each with its own charm and traditions. One such village is San Martín Tilcajete, renowned for its fascination with spirit animals and the fantastical carved and painted creatures known as alebrijes.

During Shrove Tuesday (aka Fat Tuesday), this usually serene artisan village transforms into a whirlwind of activity. A wild procession of devils and other beastly costumes meanders through the dusty roads. As this serpentine parade moves toward the town square, it gathers more revelers along the way. Eventually, the procession reaches the town center, where devils of all kinds dance and frolic in a mock wedding. It’s a wonderfully insane event, unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

So, why do these devils run free every year? In modern times, this event is linked to Christianity as a prelude to Lent. Fasting and repentance are central themes, making Carnival a final opportunity to eat, drink, and be merry. However, there’s a deeper, local aspect to this celebration. Spirit animals are integral to the people of San Martín, evident in their creation of alebrijes. The Zapotec people believe in guardian animals and have a zodiac similar to the Chinese zodiac. Therefore, the devils in the streets may not just represent evil but also the animalistic side of humans and their connection to the wild kingdom of beasts.

The event is a delight for anyone who enjoys parades, costumes, and music. A word of caution, though: it can get messy. Some of the devils (or “oily boys” as I call them) are covered in oil or paint. If you decide to join the dance, you might end up with the oily mark of the devil—a small price to pay for such a memorable experience.

So earlier this year I ran a  retreat in Oaxaca during this mayhem.  I am excited to announce  I’ll be returning in 2025 and running a workshop that ties into the importance of spirit animals.   Next years class is called Los Sagrados Animales - Inspired by the rich tradition of saints and santos, we’ll reimagine these sacred icons, infusing them with the concept of spirit animals and the essence of beasts that speak to our souls.

If you interested in taking a walk on the wild side you can learn more here. https://mijamatriz.com/michael-demeng-carnival/

The Mysterious Box of Mengs

In a delightful twist of fate, my wife Andrea recently unveiled a treasure trove from the depths of history—a vintage pastel set nestled within an old rickety box. But the real intrigue lay within its German label which translates: "Mengs Pastel Colors, based on the original recipes of Raphael Mengs." Hmmmm… who was this dude Raphael Mengs? And could he be the key to unlocking hidden family fortunes?  Sure sure the name is a bit different…but maybe?

As I delved into the labyrinth of ancestry, it became clear that Raphael Mengs, or Anton Raphael Mengs to be precise, was no distant relative poised to leave me a windfall. Born in 1728 in Bohemia, he was an influential figure in the 18th-century German neoclassical movement. In fact Mengs graced the courts of Europe with his fancy pants brushstrokes and insights into color theory.His portraits, were gazed at by kings and queens.  And as I viewed his work for the first time. I could definitely see that his work was perfect castle fare, mostly portraits hoity toitys in their finery.

As for his style…Mengs was a meister of muted colors…nothing to garish.  The colors very  soft and gently, which was appropriate given that his color theories embraced the ideas of a easy going and harmonious relationship between colors.  No big “wows”.  If I sound derogatory about his work I don’t mean to be.  It is actually quite lovely.

Now back to the box   The pastel set now housed only 8-10 worn-down sticks, none of which seemed to belong to the original collection. Ironically, the colors now residing in Mengs’ palette—the maestro of muted tones—were mostly vibrant hues. I couldn’t help but wonder if he’d be rolling in his grave at the sight.

As a final note…I did find plenty of Mengs’ work that wouldn’t be what I would consider muted. He did some rather vibrant work. Below are two versions of the goddess Diana. Did he eventually abandon his treatise on color theory…perhaps a good paying benefactor requested a bit more zing on his pallette, or perhaps because people found him dull…badumpah.

Orpheus Descends

If I were to come up with a metaphor that best describes my artistic process, I would refer you to the Greek legend of Orpheus. For those unfamiliar, the basic story goes that Orpheus was quite the musician – he was astute at the lute. It was said that his skills mesmerized all living and immortal things.

So ol’ Orphie is in love with a gal named Eurydice and all is going swimmingly. One day, their wedding day, trouble came a-knockin’. She danced through a meadow to celebrate the nuptials when a slithery black viper bit her, killing her instantly. This, of course, sent Orpheus into a tailspin. In grief and despair, he sang and played the tunes that move the gods. So moved, in fact, that the gates of the Underworld were opened so that he could retrieve her. The god of the afterlife, Hades, agreed to free her, but only if, upon their exit, they walked single file, Orpheus in front, and Orpheus could not look back. For a while, he obliged, but doubt and fear that Hades had deceived him plagued his mind. Sure enough, he turned around… and poof, she was gone. He returned home with a sad face.

Okay, so what does this have to do with my artistic process? For me, working in the studio is never easy. It is always an intimidating venture, no matter how many times I do it, no matter how seemingly simple the task. For me, it feels like I am descending into unknown and hostile territory. Like Orpheus, I feel as if I must charm the guardians of the underworld with my skills and then convince them to give me something precious. The precious thing, in my case, is something artistic, both unique and inspirational. After arduously convincing the Underworld inhabitants (the subconscious) to release my Eurydice, I must bring it back to the physical world. And like Orpheus, who had to navigate the underworld’s bureaucracy to retrieve his love, I often find myself tangled in a web of art supplies, trying to negotiate with my inner demons for a stroke of inspiration. It’s like a cosmic game of ‘Let’s Make a Deal,’ except instead of Monty Hall, it’s me and my muse trying to strike a bargain over a cup of coffee in the studio. As for the turning around… well… for my metaphor, I always equated this with the fact that no matter how many pieces of art I make, I am never content. I feel like I missed something. So I return again and again.

Baron Munchausen...Creative Thinker

Pop Quiz: Name the legendary character who did all of the following feats?:

  1. Riding a Cannonball to Safety…which he was able to steer because of his excellent horsemanship.

  2. Escaping Swamp…which seems like no great feat, unless you consider he did it by grabbing his own hair and pulling himself up.

  3. Reaching Into Fierce Wolf’s Mouth….and reaching its tail then pulling it inside out.

  4. Travelling to the Moon…by lassoing the point of the crescent and pulling himself up.

  5. Being Swallowed by a Sea Monster…and escaping by using his boat’s masts to prop open the beast’s mouth.

TIMES UP! PENCILS DOWN

The Answer: Baron von Munchausen.

And who is Baron Munchausen? I’m glad you asked. He is a fictional adventurer, but actually based on a real individual with a mouthful of a name… Karl Friedrich Hieronymus, Freiherr von Münchhausen (1720–1797). He was a German nobleman who served as a cavalry officer in the Russian military with a fondness for storytelling embellishing his own experiences with extravagant and fantastical details.

Later, a writer named Rudolf Erich Raspe embellished these tales to the nth degree and compiled a collection of stories known as "Baron Munchausen's Narrative of his Marvellous Travels and Campaigns in Russia.”

The Baron is the coolest, and to some degree, an idol. I guess you could say he has many of the traits I strive to have, many of which are crucial to being a successful artist. Obviously, he is a good problem solver, and of course, he is adept at thinking outside the box. Then there is his sense of playfulness and humor when it comes to solving those problems. And of course, he is a good storyteller…at least the "real" Baron was a good yarn spinner. Yes, it’s true I have been known to embellish for the sake of a good tale.

If you’ve never read the stories, you must….they are fun and ludicrous. And for those who are not readers, you can check out two films. Most recently is Terry Gilliam’s The Adventures of Baron Munchausen. This is a wondrous Hollywood film with a star-studded cast.

There is an earlier Czech version that is absolutely stunning and visually imaginative, by the director Karel Zeman. He didn’t have a big budget so he utilized some crazy techniques. There are a few documentaries about him out there and his other films are well worth checking out.

And if you’re ever in Prague…which I highly recommend…right next to the Charles Bridge is a small little museum that features a variety of props and replicas from Karel Zeman’s various film projects. As I said, it’s small, you can do it in about 30-45 minutes, but it’s a lot fun with various interactive gizmos.

So I was going to make this blog post a bit longer, but I have suddenly felt the need to climb up to the moon for teatime.

In the meantime you can check out a few of my found object assemblage interpretations of the Baron’s exploits.

The Baron Goes to the Moon

The Baron and the Large Fish

The Cyclops: Season Two of my Podcast Episode Resources:

Hey gang, after long last just started recording season 2 of my Podcast, Strange Tales of Myth and Magic. This episode I take a big peek at a creature that has been influencing my art since I was a wee lad…the Cyclops.

You can take a listen hear:

The Cyclops that started it all for me. From The 7th Voyage of Sinbad

Polyphemus

The most famous Cyclops of all time, Polyphemus. He was a lover too…at least wanted to be long before he started gobbling up sailors.

Kasa-Obake

Here’s a super bizarre creature from Japanese legend the parasol spirit called Kasa-obake. It's a warning to not throw things out if they are still usefull.

A Kasa Obake in the film 100 Monsters.

Magical Realism

Perhaps my favorite style of art is what is called “magical realism”. To definitively define this term is a bit difficult because there are various degrees of it many works of art, but in a nutshell it is usually a study of an everyday situation and characters but with a bit of magic inserted into the mix. Often, though, it is difficult to tell whether these occurrences are genuine events or if they are metaphoric. It is this blurring of “what is real” which makes this style so intriguing .

Literature

There are so many great reads when it comes to this topic. 100 Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez is talked about the most, but here are my two favs:

Steppenwolf by Hermann Hesse

This story takes place in Germany in the 1920s. The main character is a curmudgeonly guy named Harry Haller who describes himself as feeling split in two…part man, part wolf…metaphorically speaking. He feels out of place in the world he lives. Part of him wants to be wild and free but the cultured side of him beats him down when he does. And when he tries to be “civilized” he is attacked by his inner wolf. Now this definitely fits the magical realism box, but as novel progresses stranger things begin to happen, such as a magic theater that appears and disappears, and a strange book Harry finds which seems to be written just for him. When I first read this book I was 18 and I, like Harry, felt like a fish out of water in the world. So, in a way, I was reading a story about a man who finds a book that seems to be written about him, and while I’m reading it I kept thinking that I had found a book that was written about me. Trippy.

Life of Pi by Yann Martel

I read this book when I was in Oaxaca, Mexico, which is appropriate because I often think of that location as a place where magical thing could happen and you wouldn’t think twice about. The story takes place mostly on a lifeboat populated by a boy, a tiger and a few other animals that survived a wreck of a ship that was transporting zoo animals. Though it doesn’t sound like much of a story, it is a truly engrossing book cover to cover. Wonderous and heartbreaking. I should also mention the film is also wonderful. Not only a great story but filled with eye candy. I’d recommend reading the book first though…it’s sooo good.

Fine Art

In many ways I think many narrative paintings lean towards Magical Realism. The reason being that paintings/drawing are a single moment in time, and if they are trying to convey a story they often have to rely on symbolism.

“The Two Fridas” by Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo is perhaps my favorite Mexican artist and perhaps the poster child for this art form. Almost every piece of work that she created was a depiction of the painful world she struggled with both physically and psychologically. Her paintings are in many ways are more real because of the fantastical elements added. My favorite is “The Two Fridas”. This painting has been interpreted a number of ways, often referring to her dual heritage (her father was a German Jew and her mother was Mexican), in this case the Frida in white is the European self, which seems to be injured, while the Mexican Frida seems healthy. I tend to look at this works as an exploration of the physical pain she endured throughout her life as well as the emotional pain of her relationship with Diego Rivera.

Film

I have so many favorite films that could be included in this list but I decided to limit it to three:

Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders

What’s an angel living in West Berlin to do when day and and day out all he can do is watch and listen as the humanity feels and lives? This is the strange story of Damiel who wants to feel what it means to live, despite all the pain and suffering that mortals are prone to. One of the things that really adds to the Magical Realism is the periodic shift from black and white to color film, depending on the perspective…angels = b&w, human = color. Another great addition to this film is the inclusion of Peter Falk (you know, Columbo, Princess Bride) who plays himself…but apparently he was once an angel who took the plunge. Wunderbar.

Pan’s Labyrinth by Guillermo del Toro

It’s a dark time for a little girl named Ofelia, as her mother marries a sadistic fascist general. It is a fantasy that takes place in two worlds, a realm of magical beings like fairies and Pan, but also the wartime realm of the Spanish Civil War. Ironically, though, despite all the fantastical monsters she faces, it is the “real world” that seems to house the most horrific creatures. I love this film for a number of reasons. Firstly it is filled with some of the most wondrous beings ever thought up, but I also love that it shows this child trapped between a world that only she can see and what we call reality.

Amelie by Jean Pierre Jeunet

This is my fav. It is a tale about a young and very quirky woman, Amelie, who sees the world in her own unique way. Unlike some of the other entries, this film doesn’t necessarily have anything mystical happening. No ghosts, or fairies, etc. Instead it is the surreal use of color by the filmmaker that transforms everyday Paris into something delicious to watch. The other amazing aspect of this film how Amelie’s view of the world transforms it from mundane into something sublime.


Honestly I’m not really certain if my work fits into this category or not. I suppose it could given that the “Magical Realism” covers a wide breadth of styles. I would say that perhaps I could sneak into the category because of my use of everyday items and turning them into something out of this world. A bit of a stretch…but I’ll go with it.

Behind the Mask

Masks have always fascinated me. Perhaps its the super heroes from my childhood, like Zorro and Batman, or perhaps it’s something deeper. Over the years I have participated in a number events where masks were integral to the event…ranging from Mardis Gras parades, to Halloween to Dia de los Muertos. Something happens when a person puts on a mask. There is a transformation. Perhaps a bit of psychology, or magic if you prefer, but I believe that masks open a doorway to another “you”. It allows the wearer to experience the world in a way that isn’t weighed down by the everydayness of the daily humdrum. Depending on the mask, someone can experience a world through another’s eyes. In other situations it can allow the wearer to experience a subconscious self; the part of a person that is always there but is often constrained by societal norms, prejudices, insecurities. Masks are ways of letting that hidden self free… for a bit…a way of playing without judgment.

Over the years I have created a number of masks…some wearable, some definitely not. In either case I see them as ways as exploring different worlds.

Non-wearable Masks

Weatherworn Bjorn - not wearable

Weatherworn Bjorn was created from an old wooden lantern and I decided to create a character that has weathered “the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune”. I think I see him as representation of aging. Getting beaten down by time but refusing to surrender.

The Green Knight - not wearable

The Green Knight is base on the Arthurian legend about a strange warrior from the woods who challenges one of the Round Table Knights. He is the symbol of the chaos of the natural world…often feared and misunderstood by humanity.

 

Moon Monster - not wearable

Moon Monster is a sentimental reminder of a cyclopian creature I drew in the first grade. It was a cyclops that lived on the moon. My story ended tragically for the Moon Monster…he was zapped by the laser of visiting astronauts…in all fairness he did crush their space ship.

The Guardian - non-wearable

The Guardian was a mask created from Grandfather clock parts. It’s design was heavily influenced by a Balinese deity called Barong. He is leader of the spirits and often you would see maskso of him over doorways. When driving in Bali his statue would often be present on bridges as a way of protection.

 

Flyboy - not wearable

Flyboy is a mask of transformation. It was created with the concept that nothing ever ever stays the same. In this case, a toy plane is turned into a mask but it really is an exploration of the way time is the great transformer.

La Mancha - non wearable

La Mancha is based on Don Quixote, the legendary dreamer. I based this on some of the wooden Quixote masks I saw while visit Guanajuato Mexico during the Cervantes festival.

 

Aunt Nancy, the Spider Woman - not wearable

Aunt Nancy/ Ananse is a god whose legends originated in Africa and evolved in Caribbean islands. She/he is usually a spider but can shape shift. He/she leads humanity to wisdom, but usually in indirect not so obvious ways. You must work for enlightenment.

The Lycanthrope - not wearable

The Lycanthrope is based on old werewolf legends. I’ve always found the werewolf itself to be a mask in a way. The human is trapped in societal norms but the wolf allows the “cursed” to be free to embrace one’s animalistic nature.

 

Polyphemus - not wearable

Polyphemus was a cyclops in Greek lore. He is the abductor of Odysseus in the Odyssey and usually depicted asnot very handsome and rather brutish. I have created many cyclopes through the years…perhaps it an homage to that Moon Monster I created in first grade…or perhaps it is an homage to the Cyclopses from the Sinbad movies I consumed as a kid.

Temptation - not wearable

Temptation is mask based on the legends of shipwrecked sailors who think they find salvation in a floating island…only to realize the island is not island at all, but a hungry sea monster. This can be found the stories of Baron Munchausen, Pinocchio, and Sinbad. Sometimes things are too good to be true.

Wearable Masks

Mask of Protection - wearable but incredibly uncomfortable.

The Mask or Protection was created specifically for a found object themed workshop. In all honesty it was rather difficult to feel any psychological transformation take place while wearing it…unless you consider pain a psychological transformation. It should be called the Iron Maiden mask.

Big Bad - wearable

Big Bad was a mask I created out of card stock. Very time consuming but a cool effect. It was made for a “Beautiful Beasts” parade that was part of my annual New Orleans retreat, where students dress up as characters that are related to the workshop theme.

 

El Diablo Mask (for Dia de los Muertos) - wearable

Mr. Doom - wearable

The Diablo mask was created for Day of the Dead in Mexico City. Since I go to Mexico (usually Oaxaca) every year for Dia de los Muertos I have made lots and lots of skeleton and devil masks.

Mr. Doom was also created for my New Orleans retreat. This time, the class was creating side show shrines, so we had a procession of strange side show performers.